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Fort Niobrara National Wildlife Refuge
Nebraska

Two centuries ago the prairie was a sea of grass unbroken except for wooded streams and major rivers. Great herds of buffalo roamed the grasslands along with elk, deer, antelope, wolves, and grizzly bears. Indians followed the herds of buffalo, depending on them for food, clothing and shelter. As settlers invaded the grassy domain of the Indians and buffalo. Buffalo were nearly eliminated in spite of their great numbers, while the Indians were placed on reservations and rigidly governed.

In 1879 Fort Niobrara was built to police the Sioux Indians on the nearby Rosebud Reservation. By 1912 military activity was discontinued and the fort dismantled. All that remains is one building (the red barn), old foundations, and earth works. Today, the 19,000-acre Fort Niobrara National Wildlife Refuge is again home to elk, buffalo, antelope, as well as non-native Texas longhorn cattle.

A 76-mile reach of the Niobrara River, much of it outside the refuge, showcases a stellar example of a prairie river and preserves a unique ecological crossroads where six distinct ecosystems, some at or beyond their normal geographic limit, mix. The western third of the Scenic River is home to some ninety waterfalls, highest among them being Fort Falls and Smith Falls that topple more than seventy-five feet from a Sand Hills ledge to the valley floor. The Niobrara Valley is also a remarkable cultural landscape dotted with historic resources and small ranches and farms that have been locally owned for generations. The upper reach of the designated river is labeled one of the nation's premier canoeing rivers and is enjoyed by tens of thousands annually. Portions flow through a Federally designated wilderness.

For the most fun in Fort Niobrara National Wildlife Refuge, try these GORP picks:

Canoe the Niobrara
Perhaps the epitome of a prairie river, the Niobrara is known as a biological crossroads. Although traversing primarily private land, it also flows by the Fort Niobrara National Wildlife Refuge and the largest single holding of The Nature Conservancy, where bison have been reintroduced. The upper portion provides excellent canoeing below Valentine. Within the refuge, a beautiful pine-dotted canyon, including many waterfalls, is a favorite starting point for canoeists on the river.

* More on canoeing in Fort Niobrara National Wildlife Refuge

Gander the Wildlife
The rolling sandhills and breaks along the Niobrara River Canyon are home for a great variety of wildlife. In the winter, bald and golden eagles ride updrafts along the river in search of food. Many hardy and beautiful prairie flowers grow among the grasses. Sharp-tailed grouse and prairie chickens feed on the seeds, insects, and grasses found here and gather in the spring for their elaborate courtship display. The keen sighted and fastest running animal in North America, the pronghorn, can be found in small numbers on the refuge. Prairie dogs live in a town located near the Visitor Center. Burrowing owls and snakes make their homes in abandoned prairie dog burrows. Meadowlarks and upland sandpipers are often seen perched or singing on fence posts. To best observe refuge wildlife come early in the morning or at sunset. Bring binoculars and quietly walk the refuge trails.

Wander the Plains
Other than a couple short nature trails, there are no trails in the refuge. However, a 2,000-acre area is open to the public for bushwhacking. This is the nature of prairie hiking - you can go anywhere since there is nothing blocking your way. This is a great way to sink into the landscape, and spend some unstructured exploration time. Hiking is only allowed during the day and you must check in at headquarters located a quarter mile from Cornell Bridge.

Contact Information
Fort Niobrara National Wildlife Refuge
Hidden Timber Route
HC 14, Box 67
Valentine, Nebraska 69201
(402) 376-3789

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[from Outside magazine]