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South Side of Mt. St. Helens

The south side of Mount St. Helens provides outstanding opportunities to discover the ancient lava flows and recent mudflows that scoured down the slopes of Mount St. Helens. To enjoy your hiking experience and ensure your safety: wear sturdy shoes (walking on lava flows and mudflows can be tricky), bring sun screen and carry one quart or more of water per person. There are no water pumps on this side of the Monument.
In 1987, the southern slopes of Mount St. Helens were reopened for climbing. Visitors can climb above the timberline year round; however, a climbing permit is required above 4800 ft. from May 15 through October 31. Free permits are issued for 24 hours and can be obtained in advance from Monument Headquarters, near Amboy, by mail or in person. Unreserved permits for 40 climbers each day are available on a first come, first served basis from Jack's Restaurant and Store on State Highway 503 (5 miles west of Cougar). From 11 a.m. each morning a list is made of those wanting climbing permits for the following day. At 6 p.m. that night permits are issued from the list. One person may represent a group of 12 people and must be present at 6 p.m. for the permit issue. Due to the high demand for unreserved permits during summer, advance reservation are encouraged to avoid disappoint.
The most popular route to the summit begins at the Ptarmigan Trail (#216A). It is reached by following Forest Roads #81 and #830. The first part of the trail is a 2 mile hike through forest. The climb up Monitor Ridge can be slow, ascending steep pumice and lava slopes. The route is marked with wooden posts. During most of the year ice axes are recommended. Crampons and ropes may be needed in icy conditions. Climbers should also carry goggles or sunglasses with side shields (ash is often a problem in summer), gaiters for hiking boots, a windbreaker, rain gear, plenty of water, sunscreen, and gloves.
Climbers are required to sign in at the Climbers' Register outside Jack's Restaurant and Store before and after a climb. From the trailhead to the summit it is approximately 4.5 to 5 miles. The climb takes an average of 8 to 10 hours, round-trip from Climbers' Bivouac. However, adverse conditions due to extreme temperatures, wind and poor visibility can mean a longer trip. For more information on climbing the 8,365 ft. volcano, call the Climbing Hotline (206) 247-5800 or (206) 750-3961.
South Side Trails

Trail Of Two ForestsDistance: 0.25 mile loop Difficulty Level: Easiest Open to: Hiking, children Access: Road 8303
This barrier-free boardwalk trail allows you to venture through a land of lava. Discover the molds or impressions of an ancient forest engulfed by a lava flow nearly 2,000 years ago, and an emerald forest that has risen from the black basaltic lava. A scenic loop takes you to many examples of vertical molds and also provides an opportunity to explore a horizontal mold. If you bring a flashlight along, there is one opportunity to crawl through the mold of a tree that stood at this site 2,000 years ago.
Big Creek Trail #28Distance: 0.7 miles (one way) Difficulty Level: Easiest Open to: Hiking, children Access: : Begins: Road 90 Big Creek Bridge; Ends: Overlooking the Lewis River Valley
Located southeast of Mount St. Helens, become enchanted with the breathtaking Big Creek Falls as it plunges 110 feet into a mist-enshrouded pool, and view green gardens of hanging ferns and mosses clinging to vertical basalt cliffs. Be captivated /icoby the spectacular vista view of the Upper Lewi er as it winds through a valley of trees. Features: ridge top views of Big Creek Gorge and a view of Hemlock Creek free-failing to the valley below.
Spencer Butte Trail #30Distance: 1.5 miles to Spencer Butte (one way); 3.0 from Trailhead to Trailhead Difficulty Level: More Difficult Open to: Hiking, horses, bikes, motorcycles Access: Begins at Lower Trailhead Forest Rd. 93, Ends at Upper Trailhead end of primitive road near Spencer Meadow.
Spencer Butte is accessed by two different trailheads. The lower one climbs through a Douglas fir forest and provides a limited view. The upper starts near Spencer meadow at the end of a primitive road. This route provides open views through a western white pine forest. The entire route is maintained and ascends steadily from each trailhead to the summit of Butte. The trail is dry and ascends a fairly steep grade (20%).
Curly And Miller Creek Falls Trail #31Distance: 1/8 mile (one way) Difficulty Level: Easiest Open to: Hiking, wheelchairs, children Access: Begins: trailhead Road 90; Ends: Miller Creek Falls Viewpoint
Curly Creek and Miller Creek Falls Trail is located on the southeastern side of Mount St. Helens. Enjoy an excellent barrier-free trail that provides a chance for people of all abilities to experience a beautiful setting. Catch a glimpse of the jade green Lewis River flowing through a basalt channel 50 feet below, marvel at Curly Creek as it cascades beneath two graceful lava rock arches, and Miller Creek as it plunges into the Lewis River over a moss and fern laden cliff.
Middle Falls Trail #31CDistance: 0.75 miles (loop) Difficulty Level: Medium Open to: Hiking Access: Begins at Forest Rd. 90; Ends at Middle Falls
This maintained trail is relatively level until passing Copper Creek Falls. Beyond there the descent steepens to the Middle Falls of the Lewis River. A loop opportunity is available by crossing Copper Creek on the lower bridge and then taking the rail junction to the right. The trail exists at the Trailhead Parking Lot.
Speed Trail #31EDistance: 1.0 miles (one way) Difficulty Level: Most Difficult Open to: Hiking, Horses, Bikes Access: Begins at Forest Rd. 90; Ends at Lewis River
This maintained trail is a steep descent through the old-growth timber. It provides quick fishing access to the Lewis River and connects with the Lewis River Trail #31 via a ford crossing.
Lewis River Trail #31Distance: 3.25 miles (one way) Difficulty Level: Easiest Open to: Hiking, horses, bikes Access: Begins at Lower Falls Campground; Ends at Forest Rd. 90 and Quartz Creek Trail #5
This maintained trail leaves the Lower Lewis Campground and climbs above the River through a 2nd-growth Douglas fir forest. It crosses Copper Creek and comes to Middle Falls. The trail circumvents a cliff above Upper Falls, providing excellent views to the Falls. It crosses Alec Creek and terminates on Forest Road 90, near Quartz Creek Trail #5. Rocks at the water's edge can be extremely slippery.
Lewis River Trail #31Distance: 11 miles (one way) Difficulty Level: Easiest Open to: Hiking, horses, children Access: The trail may be accessed at four points; 1) Road 9039 (Curly Creek Falls viewpoint); 2) Road 90 (north end of Crab Creek Bridge crossing the Lewis River; 3) Road 9039 (north end of Lewis River Br.); and 4) Lower Fails Campground
Located southeast of Mount St. Helens, the Lewis River Trail traverses the Lewis River Canyon from Miller Creek Falls to the Lower Falls Campground. Hikers can discover views of the Lewis River, Curly Creek Falls with its rock arch, Miller Creek Fails, Cascade Gorge, and the historic Bolt Camp Shelter. The Lewis River is popular with both fishermen and rafters who can use the trail for river access. Frequently used camp sites are found above Cascade Gorge and in the vicinity of the Bolt Camp Shelter. The shelter can accommodate four campers on its rustic, split cedar bunks.
Cedar Flats Nature Trail #32Distance: 1-mile loop trail Difficulty Level: Easiest Open to: Hiking, wheelchairs, children Access: Road 25
Located southeast of Mount St. Helens, Cedar Flats Nature Trail takes you through a forest of majestic western red cedar and Douglas fir trees that have lived undisturbed for hundreds of years. Discover how from death there is rebirth, as new seedlings rise up from and are nurtured by the decaying remnants of the fallen trees. Touch the velvety softness of the lush mosses and feathery ferns that luxuriously carpet the forest floor. Features: view of the Muddy River.
Lava Canyon Trail #184Distance: 3.75 miles (one way) Difficulty Level: Easiest - Most difficult Open to: Hiking, Barrier-Free Access: Road 83 Connect: trails include Smith Creek Trail #225
Located at the end of Road 8300 on the south side of Mount St. Helens, Lava Canyon offers a variety d hiking levels. The trail begins with a section, 0.5 miles long and accessible to everyone, leading to a viewpoints overlooking the canyon that was scoured by mudflows on May 18, 1980, revealing formations created from past eruptions of Mount St. Helens. Continuing on beyond this barrier-free section of trail, difficulty levels increase and visitors should anticipate a more to most difficult hiking experience. The middle section allows you to venture along a 1 mile-long loop trail that crosses over the turbulent Muddy River. The 2.5-mile-long lower descends into the depths of the rugged canyon and provides views of a series of spectacular waterfalls. Wheelchair visitors should anticipate a most difficult trail experience. Beware of slick rocks and steep drops.
Ape Canyon #234Distance: 5.5 miles (one way) Difficulty Level: More difficult Open to: Hiking Access: Road 83
Located on the southeast side of Mount St. Helens, Ape Canyon trail begins 1/4 mile north of Lahar Viewpoint of Road 83. The trail travels northward on the east side of the mudflow and through a regenerating clear-cut and a forest. The trail gains 900 feet elevation by switchbacks and traversing up the ridge, coming out at the top of Ape Canyon where it connects with Loowit Trail #216.
Toutle Trail #238Distance: 13.6 miles (one way) Difficulty Level: More difficult Open to: Hiking, Mtn. Bikes, *Horses (*closed to horse use west of Sheep Canyon), children Access: Road 8123 at Toutle trailhead, Road 8100/440 spur at Kalama Horse Camp, Road 8100 at Red Rock Pass Trailhead
Located on the south aide d Mount St. Helena, the Kalama segment of the Toutle Trail parallels the Kalama River, meandering through old growth forests, and passing near the still waters of McBride Lake (5.6 miles). This segment of the trail ends at the intersection with road 8100. Upon crossing the road, the Toutle Trail continues on from Red Rock Pass Trailhead, traveling on the boundary of a regenerating clear-cut. The trail reenters a dense noble fir forest and continues to the valley of the south fork of the Tousle River, where it comes out on the edge of the forest; the trail follows the valley north and junctions with Loowit trail #216. Features:: old growth noble fir and mudflow-scoured canyons.
Butte Camp Trail #238ADistance: 1.7 miles (one way) Difficulty Level: More difficult Open to: Hiking Access: Road 81 via Toutle Trail #238 Connect: Loowit Trail #216
Located on the south side of Mount St. Helens, the trail proceeds north, crossing over an old lava flow before entering the forest. The trail then works its way up the slope, through the forest, which covers an old lava flow. On high slopes, the trail begins a long and gentle climb with only a few switchbacks, coming out on top of a plateau just east of Butte Dome and continuing a 1/4 mile through pine and subalpine grass area, onto a lava flow where it junctions with Loowit #216. Features: Panoramic view of Mt. Hood, forested valleys.
Ape Cave And Ape Cave Trail #239Distance:
- Lower Cave 3/4 mile (one way)
- Upper Cave 1 1/4 miles (one way)
- Ape Cave Trail 1 mile (one way)
Difficulty Level: More difficult Open to: Hiking, children Access: Road 8303
Named by members of an outdoor group called the Mount St. Helens Apes, this cave is the longest intact lava tube in the continental United States. The cave offers two different routes of exploration inside the cave, plus an above ground trail connecting the main and upper entrances. The lower cave is a relatively easy 0.75-mile hike that takes 1 hour round trip. It is the easier and more popular route, with its fairly level mudflow covered floor and unique features such as the lava ball. wedged in the ceiling. Upper cave is for the more adventurous. This challenging hike is 1.5 miles long ,climbs over large rock piles, scales an 8 foot lava fall, and takes 2.5 to 3 hours. Cavers should wear warm clothes, sturdy shoes and have at least two sources of light. Lantern rentals are available at Apes Headquarters for $3.00. For more on the Ape Caves, see "Monkeying Around the Ape Caves."
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