Aniakchak National Monument and Preserve
P.O. Box 7
King Salmon, AK 99613
907-246-3305
Midway down the wild and roadless Alaska Peninsula lies one of the Nations most fascinating
recent volcanic features. Aniakchak is a 6-mile wide, 2,000-foot-deep caldera formed by the
collapse of a 7,000-foot mountain. Lying inland in a region of frequent clouds and stormy
weather, Aniakchak remained unknown to all but native inhabitants until the 1920's. Then,
geographers remotely plotting mountain locations along the caldera's rim noticed their circular
configuration. Eventually, in 1922, a geologic field party gazed down into the caldera. They
brought back news of Aniakchak's immense proportions.
Although a dozen calderas stand on the Alaska Peninsula, Aniakchak ranks among the largest.
Its fascinating volcanic history can be read from its exposed internal plumbing. About 3,500
years ago, a dramatic explosion caused the loss of some 3,000 feet of the upper mountain. The
remainder of the mountain next collapsed, leaving a relatively flat-floored, ash-filled bowl. Since
the caldera first formed, many lesser eruptions have created the small cinder cones, lava flows,
and explosion pits dotting its floor today. Because some explosion features seem to have been
created underwater, the caldera probably once contained a deep snowfed lake, much like Crater
Lake in southern Oregon. Eventually, however, at a low place along the rim, lake waters began
to spill out. Over time, this fast-flowing stream created the great breach in the rim known as The
Gates. The Gates now allow the Aniakchak River to begin its tumultuous 27-mile course
southeastward to the Pacific Ocean.
Aniakchak's most recent volcanic activity came in 1931. A small but impressive explosion pit
was added to the pockmarked caldera floor that year. Many thousands of tons of ash lay strewn
within the caldera and scattered up to 40 miles away over the small villages. Fortunately, this
volcanic episode was documented both before and after by an indomitable geologist and Jesuit
priest, Father Bernard Hubbard. His photographs and descriptions provide an important
benchmark for judging the likely rate of recovery of vegetation to the devastated caldera.
Mosses, grasses, and more complex flowering plants have invaded sheltered spots. Brown bear
and caribou have returned. Spawning runs of sockeye salmon now fight their way up the
Aniakchak River and into Surprise Lake, the river's shallow headwater lake inside the
caldera.
In creating Aniakchak National Monument and Preserve, Congress recognized the unique
geological significance of the caldera and also acknowledged the outstanding wildlife and
recreational values of the Aniakchak River by designating it a wild river within the National
Wild and Scenic Rivers System. The parklands boundaries also contain other important
resources. West of the caldera lies the waterfowl and migratory bird habitat of Bristol Bay's
coastal plain. To the east, rugged bays and inlets of the Pacific coast and offshore islands provide
habitat for sea mammals and sea birds. Evidence of ancient human presence at Aniakchak is
minimal. However, more may one day be known of this important transition zone between
ancestral Aleuts and Yupik-speaking people.
Exploring the Caldera
Prehistoric and historic peoples hunted, trapped, and fished the Aniakchak area, but the caldera's
modern exploration began only with geologists in the 1920s. The area's most dramatic visits were
those of"the Glacier Priest," Father Bernard Hubbard. He was flown into the caldera itself in
1930, where he witnessed "a world within a mountain" and called it Paradise Found. A year
later Aniakchak erupted and Hubbard returned, this time hiking some 30 miles from a base camp
on Kujulik Bay with 3 companions. En route across the coastal-barrier mountains and
Aniakchak River valley their footsteps sent up clouds of ash that made their hair like wire
brushes. Desert-like dust whirlwinds everywhere raised miniature tornadoes. They made 30
miles to the volcano rim the first day and climbed it the next morning. "Black were its snowfields
and black its glaciered head...Climbing to the crater rim, we are going through a valley of death
in which not a blade of grass or a flower or a bunch of moss broke through the thick covering of
deposited ash." The party climbed to the new subcrater's steaming rim: "We stood awestricken
on the edge," wrote the priest, "looking, like Dantes, into a real inferno."
Running the River
Are you contemplating running the Aniakchak River from its caldera headwaters through treeless
tundra to the sea? A commercial guidebook says:"The weather on Aniakchak is severe;
life threatening conditions can develop rapidly. Extremely violent winds in the caldera,
particularly near 'The Gates,' can shred tents and prevent air rescue." A hefty budget and
pretested skills and gear are absolutely necessary.
Congress named the Aniakchak a national wild river in 1980. Its spectacular resources make
rafting the Aniakchak a most rewarding experience. You can float from inside a volcano to the
ocean past spectacles of wildlife and geology. From Surprise Lake the river flows a peaceful mile
to The Gates. The river moves swiftly through this narrow gorge in the caldera wall, and large
rocks demand precise maneuvering. A gradient of 75 feet per mile makes this section
challenging. After a more gentle 10 miles comes the confluence with Hidden Creek, and the
river is again filled with car-sized boulders, abrupt bends, and a narrow bed requiring extreme
caution. After 5 more miles the river slows to meander toward the Pacific and the seals, sea
otters, bald eagles, and sea birds of Aniakchak Bay. Total float time: 3 to 4 days from Surprise
Lake to the bay. Camp on sandy gravel bars for flat tent sites and fewer bugs - and so that your
human impacts are readily erased by subsequent high water. Use a small backpacking stove;
firewood is scarce in treeless tundra.
Only a few parties float the river each year, mostly in July. Plan on delays getting in and,
especially, delays getting out. Dry suits are recommended; life jackets are required. Scout The
Gates and Hidden Creek continence before you run them. Inflatable rafts 12 or 13 feet long with
rowing platforms are most popular. Bring lots of repair materials! USGS topographic maps and
other supplies may be available in King Salmon, but supplies are sometimes limited.
Planning Your Visit
Few people go to remote Aniakchak National Monument and Preserve. Established in 1978, it
lies 450 miles south of Anchorage on the roadless Alaska Peninsula. Its 586,000 acres are
among the least visited in the National Park system. Notoriously bad weather combines with
costly and unpredictable access to discourage most would be visitors. Solo travel is not
recommended. Do not attempt to plan and carry out a trip based solely on the information
here!
Air charters can land you at Meshik Lake, Surprise Lake in the caldera, or Aniakchak, Amber, or
Kujulik bays on the Pacific Ocean. Air charters fly from King Salmon, which has daily
commercial air service from Anchorage. However, weather conditions often prevent or delay
dropoffs and pickups. You must plan and prepare for the worst-case scenario.
The national monument and preserve contains no marked trails, campgrounds, or services. All
camping is primitive; small backpacking stoves are necessary for cooking in what is essentially
treeless tundra. Travel in Aniakchak is best accomplished from mid-June through early-
September. King Salmon offers the most extensive travel facilities, services, and supplies. Once
out in the wilds you are completely on your own. You must be prepared to be self-sufficient.
Park headquarters is located in King Salmon, 150 miles north of Aniakchak. While backcountry
permits are not required, it is highly recommended that you file an itinerary with both the
National Park Service and a relative or friend. Topographic maps are available at the King
Salmon Visitor Center at the airport, but you should request trip-planning advice in advance of
your trip.
Hunting and Fishing - Fishing is permitted in both the monument and preserve. An
Alaska fishing license is required, and anglers must follow state fishing regulations. Sport
hunting is permitted only in the preserve and in compliance with state regulations. Contact the
superintendent for information on guides and seasons.
Hiking - Hikers will find excellent hiking conditions atop the ash and cinder fields of
the caldera floor. However, the Aniakchak landscape also features swift, cold rivers and
seemingly impenetrable patches of dense vegetation. In route-finding, the path of least resistance
often will be an animal trail. Again, make noise as you walk to warn wildlife of your
approach.
Weather - Summer temperatures in this part of Alaska average in the high 40s to low
50s F, with most days overcast and wet. Because winds are frequent, even though it is summer
these conditions can quickly lead to hypothermia, the lowering of the body's core temperature.
As symptoms progress it becomes increasingly difficult to respond to them. Be aware of this
danger and know how to avoid and treat hypothermia.
Wildlife - When Father Hubbard first climbed into Aniakchak Caldera in 1930, his first
dramatic experience - after the scenery was with a female brown bear and her cub. Brown bears
remain numerous throughout this area because of good forage conditions and seasonal
availability of ample dietary protein in the form of salmon. River runners often see brown bears
on the Aniakchak River, often a lot closer than common sense dictates.
In dense stands of willow or alder and other conditions that hamper visibility, make lots of noise
so you do not startle resting bears or moose. Moose and bears with young are especially
protective and more prone to an aggressive response when they perceive a threat to their
offspring. Keep a respectful distance from all wildlife.
Trips
Eruks Wilderness Float Tours - Fly-in expeditions for small groups on pristine Southwest Alaskan rivers. Superb fishing, diverse wildlife, unique natural features. Led by Wildlife Biologist. Flyfishing specialist. Bow or rifle hunts.
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