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ACTIVITIES
Reaching Heaven in the Swiss Alps
Mont Blanc Routes, Part II
By Richard Goedeke
Climb 3: The Italian Route
Start from the Val Veni from Cantine de la Visaille (1653m, bus from Courmayeur). Take the path along the moraines on the northern bank of the Miage Glacier. Alternatively, from Lac Combal (1940m), further up the valley, take a path over the big moraine on the south side to reach the Miage Glacier. Ascend the middle of the glacier. Pass below the Dome Glacier (2493m) on the right and go on to P.2530 at the foot of the southern spur of the Aiguilles Grise. Take a path on the right, 150m beyond P.2530, first up a scree couloir, then working steeply up east to cross a shoulder on the ridge to reach the Dome Glacier side. Continue up and across, bending right, across couloirs and snow slopes to a rock spur that leads up to the Gonella Hut (3071m, CAI, 40 beds, managed from mid-July to the end of August, tel. 0165-89369).
Dome Glacier to Gouter
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Mont Blanc Map
Click here for a map of the Italian Route.
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Ascend near the western edge of the glacier, then move toward the center (crevasses). Higher up take the left (west) arm of the glacier, cross the bergschrund, and go left to the Col des Aiguilles Grises (3809m, three hours). This point can also be reached by following the Aiguilles Grises ridge from the hut (PD), climbing over the first two towers, turning the third on the west side by descending somewhat, and after that, going on the broad snow ridge over the summit of the Calotte des Aiguilles Grises (3826m to the col, four hours). Now continue northward on the ridge. Turn a rock rise on the left and continue on the snow ridge to the shoulder (4003m) on the frontier ridge just above the Col de Bionassay. Continue (northeast) up the often corniced ridge to a further shoulder (4153m, iron posts) and then on to the Dome du Gouter (4303m) to join the Gouter route (See Gouter to the Summit).
Adjacent Peaks
Mont Blanc de Courmayeur (4748m) is the southeast summit 600m away beyond the rocky P.4741, La Tournette. The Dome du Gouter (4303m) as well as Grande Bosse (4513m) and Petite Bosse (4547m) are traversed on the ascent from the Aiguille du Gouter. The more independent Pic Luigi Amedeo (4469m) is only reached on an ascent of the Brouillard Ridge. Pic Eccles (4041m) lies close to the Innominata Bivouac Hut. The Grande Chandelle (4600m) is the rock tower at the top of the Central Preney Pillar. The not very independent shoulder summit Grand Pilier d'Angle (4243m) is crossed when climbing the upper Peuterey Ridge.
Other Worthwhile Routes
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Abbreviations: Level of Difficulty
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| | F |
Easy |
| | PD |
Not Very Hard |
| | AD |
Fairly Hard |
| | D |
Hard |
| | TD |
Very Hard |
| | ED |
Extremely Hard |
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 | Southwest Face: PD, mixed and snow to 500, 1400mH (height gain in meters), six to eight hours from the dilapidated QuintinoSella Hut.
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| Brouillard Ridge: AD+, a classic ridge, in part on loose rock, to III+, 2200mH, 1018 hours from the Monzino Hut.
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| Innominata Ridge: D+, a classic, especially beautiful ridge, mixed climb, 1450mH, 1217 hours from the Monzino Hut, 710 hours from the Eccles Bivouac Hut.
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| Traverse of Aiguille Blanche and Peuterey Ridge: D+, rock to IV-, over a long distance III and II, mixed, with snow or ice to 550, 2500mH, 1020 hours from Monzino Hut.
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| Brenva Spur: AD to D, according to conditions, predominantly snow or ice to 500, occasionally extreme at the exit, marvelous line, objectively safe, 900mH to exit, 1300mH to summit, 710 hours from the Trident Hut.
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| The Brenva Face by the Sentinelle Rouge Route: D+, snow or ice to 550 and rock to III, ideal line direct to the main summit, but with danger of falling ice, 1200mH to exit, 1400mH to summit, 913 hours from the Trident Hut.
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| The Brenva Face by the Route Major: TD, ice to 570, rock to V and IV, mixed, great danger of falling ice, especially in the crossing of the Grand Couloir, 1000mH face, 1300mH to summit, about 1116 hours from the Trident Hut.
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| Right-Hand Freney Pillar or Gervasutti Pillar: TD, rock to VI, and A1, mixed, 800mH, 812 hours from the Col Peuterey.
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| Central Freney Pillar: ED+, rock to VI and A3, mixed, at the end of the world, and — given bad luck — delivered up to all the hells of sudden changes of weather, 1525 hours from Col Peuterey.
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