I continued my loop, stopping by Greeter and Ranger Creek falls before heading up the Collins River gulf. In places, Collins River simply flows into the ground, into a sink, to emerge from the ground downstream and flow onward. I climbed to the rim once again, camping very near Suter Falls at a campsite that allowed me to look far as far as the eye could see down the Collins River canyon. After having explored many of the 50 miles of trails and staying at 4 of the 10 backcountry campsites, I hadn't seen a soul.

Part of the greater South Cumberland Recreation Area, Savage Gulf is a backpacking-only destination that is accessible year-round. It has a true wilderness feel.