Our journey through the kingdom takes us to Thimphu, then east to the fertile lowland valley of Wangdue Phodrang.

Here we walk across rice fields to the temple of Chimi Lhakhang, built by Lama Drukpa Kunley in 1499. Known as the Divine Madman, he is Bhutan's favorite saint, using humor, songs, and outrageous behavior to dramatize his teachings. His favorite sport, archery, has been adopted as the Bhutanese national game and is the kingdom's only entry in the Olympics. And his fertility blessings attract couples not only from Bhutan, but from America and Japan, as well.

	Bhutan At a Glance

It is Sunday, and the narrow track to the temple is busy with Bhutanese, all dressed in their finest clothes. Everyone carries an offering — rice, biscuits, marigolds. Pema has sticks of incense, which he will present at the altar.

The white temple is perched on the top of a conical green hill. A river sweeps around one side, with the valley funneling north into the cleft of the spectacular Punakha Dzong, winter seat of the Bhutanese monk body, is situated.

The temple looks a little like a pagoda, with golden dragon heads bursting from the roof corners. Around the walls are prayer wheels, which the Bhutanese spin by hand. Inside each brightly painted wheel are written prayers; these are said on your behalf each time the wheel revolves.

Strings of Bhutanese chilis

We follow Pema into the temple, which is dark and slightly scented; it's a shock after the brilliant sunshine outside. A triad of young monks, aged maybe eight or nine, skip about taking offerings of fruit, money, milk, and rice from visitors. One chews pink bubble gum and looks as naughty and curious as any child; he has bare feet and scarlet robes, and the dirtiest face.

A towering statue of Drukpa Kunley is draped with flower necklaces. Bright orange marigolds, peacock feathers, and bowls of holy water are lined up on the altar. Two large elephant tusks curve inward from the sides, and butter lamps flicker in the gloom, their tiny flames lighting the faces of the women and children kneeling, foreheads and arms before them, on the floor.

Outside children are running, laughing, playing. Families are picnicking beneath the prayer flags, enjoying the views and the autumn day. They wave, and call greetings as we shoulder our daypacks and head back across the rice fields."Kuzo zangpo," Good health! they say, in Bhutanese. "Kadinchhey la," we reply. Thank you.

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Bhutan Adventures Encounter the Kingdom of the Thunder Dragon, a land of 7,000-meter peaks, ancient culture, and sublime beauty. More Himalaya Trips Nepal India Tibet Pakistan more Asia...

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