For this once-in-a-lifetime trip, we have chosen a trek to Chomolhari, Bhutan's most sacred peak and the third highest in the country at 7,314 m. All peaks are sacred to the Bhutanese (mountaineering is banned), but Chomolhari is special — her name translates as "Goddess." She is a bold, cold wedge of snow and ice, and we are on our way to pay homage.

	An Eyeful of Bhutan

Despite traveling as a couple, our team is extensive; the daily charge for being in Bhutan is high, so trekkers are extremely well supported.

Besides Duncan and I, there is Pema, our diminutive guide. He speaks good English, has a ready smile, and specializes in leading trekking groups. His view on life is fascinating, and over the next fortnight we gain a real insight into everyday existence in Bhutan.

Chhimi, the cook, is long and thin; he is constantly clowning. Nado, our horseman, is an ex-monk. He has high cheekbones and smooth skin that wrinkles deeply when he laughs, which is often. Nado speaks one word of English — T'anks! — and rapidly becomes our favorite.

Above the Paro Chhu Valley

Climbing up the valley, we pass traditional houses of stone and mud. They are three stories high — animals live in the lowest layer, people in the middle, and hay or food dries under the roof. They all have white walls and carved, wooden, glassless windows intricately painted with auspicious Buddhist symbols. We recognize the endless knot, lotus flower, glossy pink phallus, and swastika, and are glad that we read up on the religion and its icons. The raised roofs are made of wooden shingles held down with rocks; there are no chimneys, so smoke from the open cooking fires makes its way out by whatever crevices it can find.

Soon the rice fields give way to crops of oats, chilies, and potatoes. A farmer urges two shiny black oxen around a tiny field, the wooden plough dragging through wet soil. Prayer flags by the river snap and flap in the breeze, and water-powered prayer wheels spin with the current. It is like stepping into the last millennium.

An Eyeful of Bhutan You'll see many things on a walk of Bhutan that will be etched into permanent memory. Here are a few must-sees: The great dzongs — fortified monasteries that are also administrative seats. Those in Paro, Punakha, and Wangdue Phodrang are particularly impressive. Weekend vegetable market in Thimphu. The view from Dochu La of the Bhutan Himalaya, on a clear day. A small group of takin, the national animal, live in an enclosure in Thimphu; they were once released but refused to leave. They look like a child's drawing, a cross between a buffalo and a bear, with a square head, blunt nose, and an overhung top lip. Little brown eyes are framed by long eyelashes, and horns, a cropped tail, and massively cloven hooves make up the extremities. They are novel subjects for photography! Birds are abundant: So far, 675 species have been recorded in Bhutan, including eagles, redstarts, the yellow-billed magpie with its long, flowing tail, cheeky hoopoe, colorful but shy pheasants, and the Tibetan raven. The rare black-necked crane can be seen, in autumn, in the high valley of Phobjikha. Gangri Tours & Treks, in Thimphu, run bird-watching holidays.

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Bhutan Adventures Encounter the Kingdom of the Thunder Dragon, a land of 7,000-meter peaks, ancient culture, and sublime beauty. More Himalaya Trips Nepal India Tibet Pakistan more Asia...

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