The SMC Shuksan is the same axe as REI's Mountain II, so we reviewed them as one. The Shuksan is a solid-feeling, heavier axe, with much of the weight in the thick shaft. This reduces the head's swing weight, so chopping and climbing swings are less efficient, but not overly so. The low-profile chrome-moly head is comfortable to hold on long hauls and easy to sharpen. I liked the pick's even teeth, which had some bite for climbing. The Shuksan self-arrested admirably under a variety of snow conditions.

When it came to chopping steps, bollards, and ledges, the Shuksan's adze hacked with the best of them. The axe has plastic shock dampers on each end of the shaft that prohibit any metal-to-metal contact between the shaft, head, and spike. SMC claims this will reduce shock and vibration on the hands. I didn't notice much difference in impact when using the axe as a cane, but indeed I found very little vibration when planting the pick in hard ice. This axe stands near the top of the pack for all-around performance.

Weight (70 cm): 1 pound, 9 ounces
UIAA rating: Not rated
Price: $75 for SMC version, $68 for REI's
Pro: Good all-around performer; shock dampeners
Con: A heavier axe with a lighter head means less efficient head action.
Self-arrest: 3.5
Steep snow climbing: 4
Durability: 3.5
(Rating scale, 1  5: 1 = poor, 3 = average, 5 = excellent)
Comparative Ratings Chart