Wild Country Super Eight

There are dozens of belay devices on the market. Some are simple friction devices, like figure-eights, tubes, or stitch plates, that have no moving parts. An alternative is an automatic belay device that works on a camming principle.

When you are shopping for a new device, you should feel free to ask to try it out with a bight of rope. If possible, test one at your local climbing gym or mountaineering shop before you buy. When testing a belay device, pay attention to how smoothly the rope runs through it. Catch a practice fall, then lower the climber. Does the rope catch or get tangled? A device that kinks the rope can not only be annoying, but dangerous, since it inevitably distracts your attention away from the climber.

Consider what type of rope you will be using. Some devices won't handle cords above 10 mm in diameter. Others perform fine with a single rope, but are a nightmare when you are using double rope technique.

Sterling 10mm Static Rope

Belay plates are flat pieces of metal with holes for one or two bights of rope. Usually the openings are two different sizes, so you can belay with a thick 11 mm rope, as well as a more streamlined 8 mm. However, if you are using double rope technique, two ropes of equal size won't run consistently through the different sized holes. Plates are extremely easy to use, but aren't known to be smooth rope handlers, since the rope is kinked at a severe angle to allow maximum friction in catching a fall. However, they are virtually indestructible and don't wear on your rope as much as other devices.