Five years ago, the harness trend was minimalist in nature. Thin waist loops, very little padding, and few gear loops were the rule. The thought was that you needed a super- flexible, no frills harness for sport climbing, and that the more comfortable, heavy-duty harnesses were excessive examples of mountaineering tradition. But the fashion pendulum has swung back to plumb, and most climbers have realized that it is more convenient to buy gear that is appropriate for both sport and traditional climbing.

Black Diamond Mentor Harness

Now harness technology has produced extremely comfortable, padded harnesses that are light enough for gym use, but built to withstand the rigors of traditional climbing as well. Harness prices have skyrocketed in the past few years, with some models edging over the $100 mark. However, the availability of manufacturing in ex-Soviet bloc countries and Asia has resulted in cut-rate harnesses that cost in the $40 range. As in most shopping decisions, your best bet is to select a product that is mid-priced, with top features and durability, without paying extra for a big name brand.

If a harness is ill-fitting, it will inhibit movement when you climb, and feel like a bucking strap when you are hanging at the belay or after a fall. A harness should fit snugly around your waist, with leg loops that fit loosely around your thighs. Slip two fingers between the leg loop and your thigh. If this is possible, the size should be about right.

When you buy a harness, try it on over your jeans, or fleece pants. Make sure the belt and leg loop adjustment gives you a couple of inches to spare, for cold weather clothing or one too many Lasagna dinner. Again, try on a variety of brands--looking for convenience of closure, the rise (space from the tie-in to the leg loops) waist fit, and thigh size. If your local climbing shop has a climbing wall, put on the harness, clip into a fixed line, and hang.

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Harnesses weigh anywhere from two thirds of a pound to a whopping two pounds. Lighter is better, but don't compromise comfort for a few ounces. The features you need in a harness depend on what type of climbing you will be pursuing. Standard features are a belay loop, a haul loop, padding, and reinforced gear slings. You might save a few dollars buying a stripped down sport rig with limited racking capabilities, but both use and comfort will be limited. Removable leg loops are a nice feature for answering the calls of nature (without having to remove your waist belt). Also, many modern harnesses have leg loops that adjust in size and rise (the distance between the apex of your legs and your belly button). The ability to micro-adjust a harness, depending on what you are climbing, and what your are wearing, is extremely handy.

While all harness buckles are built to endure the most rigorous of testing, they are not all equal. Most are of the double back variety, but they vary in the effort it takes to thread the webbing. Some new harnesses have"fool proof" buckles that are always locked. All you need to do is snug them up around your waist. These work well, especially for children who may not remember to always double back their buckle. Tapered webbing belts (wider in the back for more support, and narrower at the curve of your hips and in the front for comfort, are the way to go. You don't want to choke off your air supply every time you lean over to tie your shoes!