I'm looking into buying a few pieces of mountaineering gear from a friend. I am looking at a mountaineering ax and a pair of crampons. I know that the gear has been used but not too much. They are in good condition, but I'm curious about any"hidden" signs of misuse or anything that should signal to me that the gear is unsafe.

Paul Crunkleton

Annie's Answer:

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First of all, Paul, have you ever bought anything from a friend before? Like a car? But if buyer and seller are both cool with it, then here are a few points for consideration:

Do not, repeat, do not buy used carabiners or rock climbing protection, ropes, slings, webbing, or harnesses. You alone should know the history of these items. Hardware that has been dropped, for instance, is compromised in imperceptible ways. Ropes, slings and harnesses have a definite shelf-life determined by UV-exposure, proper storage and of course, how many falls each has sustained. As far as crampons are concerned, make sure you try them on with the boots you intend to wear and make sure they fit. They should fit snugly and cling to the boot even when the straps are not secured. Examine the front points in particular (don't be shy about using a magnifying glass!) for metal fatigue, which may be manifested by a slight ridge or ripple or hairline stress crack just at the base of the front teeth. Don't worry if the points are dull — they can be sharpened. Additionally, review the straps or bindings for worn spots or loose fittings.

Ice axes, like crampons, can always be sharpened, but only to a point, pun intended. Eventually you'll have to replace the pick — though all-purpose mountaineering axes generally don't feature removable picks. Look for teensy stress fractures, or for signs that the axe has not been employed to pry up manhole covers. Check shaft rivets, and for damage around the joint between head and shaft.