Most bike owners stick with the saddle bolted to the seatpost at the time of purchase. But with the exception of high-end bikes, this is an area traditionally skimped on by bike designers. Sure, you can get a full-suspension bike with LX parts for $900, but the cost shavings have to come from somewhere, and one of those areas is the saddle.

The rationale is that saddles are such an individual choice and so easily replaceable that it's easy to sacrifice in that area to bump up another component such as the stem or seatpost. And it's a relatively good rationale at that. The saddles on bikes are chosen because they would serve the average rider using the bike for that purpose. For example, a $400 mountain bike will have a slightly cushioned saddle with moderate stiffness to accommodate a semi-casual rider. Meanwhile, a $4,000 bike will have a narrow, high-grain leather saddle, with lightweight titanium rails and extreme stiffness to appeal to the professional racer. Of course many noncompetitive cyclists buy $4,000 bikes that never see a race, or even a sprint, and many $400 mountain bikes show up on the NORBA start line.

Installation and Adjustments

Perhaps as crucial as finding a saddle is properly installing it. Seatpost height, angle, position, and other variables (such as length of the handlebar stem and cranks) can play an important role in establishing a well-fitting bike. While there are some simple guidelines for setting the positioning of the seat, there is no one proper way to ride a bike. Many a hard-core rider has been known to ditch the "rule book" riding position for one that increases comfort or control. Generally speaking, a saddle should be positioned so that when one leg is at the bottom of the stroke (i.e. the crankarm is pointing straight down), there is a very slight bend in the knee. This protects against over-extension and ensures good power on the following upstroke.

To determine fore-aft positioning, put the bike in a stationary trainer (or have someone hold you up while in the saddle) and bring the cranks horizontal. Here's where the friend comes in handy: Take a plumb-line, straightedge, or a weighted piece of string and place the end on the tip of the most forward knee. From the kneecap, a straight line should bisect the spindle of the cranks (the metal piece the cranks rotate around). If the line is forward or rear of the center, the saddle should be moved on the rails to put the rider in the correct position.

If all this sounds complicated, keep in mind that these are adjustments that a good bike shop will be happy to help you with — and is yet another reason why a good local shop is priceless.

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