Mount Rainier in the rich glow of dawn

Considered the easiest route on Mount Rainier, the Disappointment Cleaver/Ingraham Glacier Route is not without its challenges. It requires roped glacier travel, roped snow and ice climbing, and route-finding in that often foggy/rainy/snowy weather that characterizes the Pacific Northwest.

The climb itself follows the Muir Snowfield to a flat area (Camp Muir), where most parties spend a night. From Camp Muir, the route crosses the Cowlitz and Ingraham Glaciers before following the aptly named Disappointment Cleaver. The climb is interesting and varied, but never extreme.

This route has had some endorsements from some well-known people. Former VP Al Gore climbed the route in August 1999 with American Alpine Club president Jim Frush. He summitted with his son Albert and considered the climb an exceptional experience. (His Secret Service guys did not summit.)

Just the Facts First ascent: Unknown. Time required: 2–4 days; 6–10 hours from Muir Camp to the summit Technical grade: Alpine Ice III, with snow and glacier travel References: Selected Climbs in the Cascades, by Jim Nelson and Peter Potterfield

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