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Nutcracker
Stolen Chimney
Ellingwood Arete
Disappointment Cleaver / Ingraham Glacier Route
Southwest Ridge, Canada
Jamapa Glacier, Mexico

Rest of the World
Normal Route, Kenya
Frontier Ridge, France
Cuillin Ridge, Scotland
South Face, Italy

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GORP Top Ten
Climbs for Novices
By Cameron M. Burns
Ellingwood Arete
* Crestone Needle, Sangre de Cristo Mountains, Colorado

The Ellingwood Arete lies on the right edge of the large rounded face, below and right of the pointed summit.
Crestone Needle
Let's face it: Bagging "fourteeners" (mountains that are 14,000 feet or higher) is fine, but climbing those high peaks by technical routes is where it's at these days. Luckily, for folks doing Colorado's famed fourteeners there's the Ellingwood Arete on Crestone Needle.

This climb is without a doubt the best easy rock climb on any of Colorado's "Gang of 54 (fourteeners)." Not surprisingly, you'll see it appear in both rock climbing guides and mountaineering guides for Colorado. It's airy, interesting, and remote.

The route follows a faint prow comprised of strange yet comforting horizontal ledges to a short rock wall that requires one move of 5.7 to negotiate. Then it's solid rock to the spectacular 14,197-foot summit.

So which is it really? A rock route or a mountain climb? As one climber put it recently: "a great combination of both."

Just the Facts
* First ascent: Albert Ellingwood, F. Frissel, E. Davis, S. Hart, M.
* Warner, 1925
* Time required: 1/2 day from South Colony Lakes, below the
* mountain
* Technical grade: III, 5.7
* References: Rock Climbing: Colorado by Stewart Green

* Check out San Isabel National Forest, home of the
* Sangre de Cristo Range
* South-central Colorado Resources

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