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from Away.com
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ACTIVITIES
From Rock to Mountains
Skill Building
By Gregory Crouch
| Rock Climbing |
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 | Climb in different places. Learn different techniques on different types of rock. |
| Learn how to protect using natural rock features like horns and chockstones to complement the gear on your rack. |
| You don't like off-widths and chimneys? Learn to love 'em — many mountain routes demand wide-crack climbing skills. |
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Build a rockhound resume
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| Do multipitch climbs. Learn how to build secure anchors. Avoid sport climbs until you are comfortable using traditional protection. |
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| Snow Climbing |
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| Find a snow slope where you can practice snow techniques safely — they're not especially difficult, but they do take practice. Make sure the runout from your practice slope is free from rocks and will bring you to a stop if you lose control. |
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| Practice the self-arrest. You won't get more than one chance in an emergency, so learn how to do it right on safe terrain. Note: different snow conditions will greatly affect your practice — a slope that keeps you from building up speed when it's soft and mushy under midday sun can be as fast as a luge run when it's frozen in the morning or evening. |
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| Learn flat-footed crampon techniques. They're fun and efficient. Skiers beware: When on snow and you feel your balance going, don't set the edges of your crampons like you would on skis — your crampons will cut out from under you. Roll the soles of your feet flat against the slope to get all the points of your crampons embedded in the snow while you find your balance. |
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| Know how to belay on snow: ice-axe, boot-axe, and seated. These methods are fast, easy, and reliable. The friction of the rope running over the snow absorbs a lot of force, so snow belays don't typically have to absorb the large impact forces that rock-climbing falls generate. |
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| When you're climbing moderate snow and falling is unthinkable, focus on your feet. Concentrate on technique. Don't let loose straps or clothing flap around to trip you. |
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| Crampon balling will occur under many snow conditions. Develop a rhythm to tap each of your crampons clean every few steps with your axe before the balling threatens to cause a slip. |
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| Big-Wall Climbing |
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| Know how to aid, haul, and communicate with an unseen/unheard partner and ascend a fixed rope. |
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| Free yourself from the ton of stuff common to American big-wall climbing. |
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| Walls-in-a-day are great practice for big alpine routes. They demand the"light is right" approach, high-velocity climbing, and committed attitude so important to alpine success. |
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| Adapt your big-wall techniques to the alpine setting. Things will not be the same. |
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RELATED GORP LINKS
 GORP Climbing
GORP Gear
GORP Travel
Article © Gregory Crouch, 2000.
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