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from Away.com
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ACTIVITIES
From Rock to Mountains
Tactics
By Gregory Crouch
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Learn to mix it up
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Fill in the gaps: Do routes that will expand your climbing experience. There are many places to lay your alpine foundation: the Tetons, the Rockies, the Sierras, the Cascades, the Wind Rivers, the Canadian Rockies, Scotland in winter, and the Alps, among others. Here you'll find great moderate routes without the hassles of full-blown expeditions. |
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| Focus on learning: Don't think in terms of how hard you can climb, think in terms of what you can learn. Round out your climbing experience. |
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| Read books: There are lots of good how-to books about alpine climbing. Your alpine learning will be a combination of book learning, instruction from friends or guides, and actual experience. |
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| Know thyself: Identify your weaknesses and work to eliminate them. |
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| Mix it up: Choose alpine routes that are mixes of snow, ice, and rock. |
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| Mind over matter: Good physical fitness helps, but mental toughness and burning desire to"make it happen" — Rolando Garibotti's mantra — are far more important. |
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| Research your route: Study maps, topos, and descriptions before departing. Anything look weird? Need any special equipment? Pump people familiar with the area and route for information. |
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| Check your timing: Think about how changes in temperature and sun exposure will affect your route and descent. Plan accordingly. Notice what time of day various features of the mountain catch and lose the sun. |
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| Do some recon: Reconnaissance is the greatest guarantee of good route-finding. Once you arrive at your base camp or at a bivi, make a reconnaissance. Planning a predawn start? Go and physically explore as much of your proposed route as time and energy allow, even if tomorrow's route appears to be simple walking. You'll be amazed how much easier it becomes to negotiate familiar terrain in the dark. If the terrain is fifth class, fix your ropes over the upcoming pitches. |
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| Start early: This will give you more time to correct any route-finding mistakes later, and you'll be less likely to get hit by foul weather. |
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| Don't count on good weather tomorrow: Conditions are good now? Get hot and do it. |
RELATED GORP LINKS
 GORP Climbing
GORP Gear
GORP Travel
Article © Gregory Crouch, 2000.
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