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Shoe Sizing
Denny A's Question:
There seem to be two distinct schools of thought on shoes. Some say cram my feet into as little a shoe as I can handle, the other says to find a comfortable, snug fit. Should my climbing shoe size be the same as my normal shoe size? Should my feet ever hurt? This may sound silly, but how do I know if I have a good fit?
— Denny A
Don's Answer:
In the early 1970's, climbers shifted from lug-soled mountain boots to the tight-fitting, smooth-soled rock-climbing footwear that you are familiar with today. Trouble was, there wasn't much competition, and manufacturers hadn't really figured out how to mold a shoe to a foot, and so a sadistic myth emerged stating that rock shoes had to be painful to work. Not so today. With several hungry manufacturers willing to offer a vast line-up of different shoe shapes and styles, even down to half sizes, you ought to be able to find a shoe that fits snugly, but one won't bring tears to your eyes.
Shop around. Try on several different brands (they use slightly different"lasts", the form around which they build shoes) and several different models within the brand. This makes catalogue shopping almost impossible. Put them on bare feet and then walk around the store. After fifteen minutes, you'll have a good idea if they fit. (You can't stand the pain? Too tight. You can easily imagine being able to walk a mile without any discomfort? Too loose.) The ideal shoe fits as tightly as possible, without being painful. Take full advantage to your visit to the climbing shoe department. Slow down. Listen to the opinions of the sales staff. Don't go in prejudiced by myths or magazine ads. If the store has a sample wall (or even a molding trim) to see how the shoes feel on an edge, all the better.
Then think about what you are planning to do with the shoes. Sport-climbing or gym climbing on overhanging terrain where your feet "grab" like hands? Go soft and tight. After all, you can take the shoes off when you are done with a short route. Looking instead at long traditional routes which will keep you on the rock for multiple hours? The shoe needs to be a little stouter and a little friendlier to your feet. You can't function on that last pitch if your toes are screaming.
Don't get bogged down in matching street-shoe sizes with climbing-shoe sizes. The rock shoes use a European scale, anyway (my 8.5 street feet use a 41 rock shoe, for example). And even within the industry, there is a lot of variation in the numbers. The number on the box is only a rough guide; let your feet have the final say.
Finally, treat lined and unlined shoes differently. A fabric or canvas lining won't allow more than a half size stretch when the shoes break in. An unlined shoe will grow a full size after a few sweaty hours of climbing.
Shoe sizing, even with all the information and experience in the world, will still be a tough issue. Be patient.
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