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Climbing Expert Don Mellor

Expert Answers
Quasars and Quarks: Ice-Tool Physics

Ken's Question:
Can you compare the Charlet Moser Quasar to the new Quark?

— Ken Calligar

Don's Answer:
Don Mellor

Don Mellor
Don Mellor

Don Mellor has been climbing, writing about climbing, and teaching climbing for more than 25 years.

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* Expert Answers
This is a good question, one that goes beyond the particulars of the Quasar and the Quark. Over the last ten years, manufacturers have been experimenting with bends in the ice-tool shaft, and doing so for a number of very different reasons. The initial bend was at the bottom of the shaft, and it encouraged hanging on the tool in a more comfortable hand position (and maybe protecting the knuckles as an added benefit). The Quasar put the bend higher up the shaft, and this allowed increased clearance over bulges. The newest generation of tools - the Black Diamond Cobra, the Grivel Machine, and the Charlet-Moser Quark, for example, greatly increased this upper shaft clearance, and in most opinions, greatly improved their performances. Hold the Quasar next to the Quark and you'll notice this increased clearance; use the Quark and you'll appreciate the difference. Keep in mind, however, that every new shape needs a slightly adjusted swing. When I made the switch to the Machine, it took several weeks for me to change my swing, giving it a more downward direction, less of a wrist flick. I was discouraged at first, but later came to appreciate the new design. Keep thinking about (and practicing) the swing and you'll find the new tools good in almost all situations.

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