It's a tough world out there for your tires

Tire levers. Two will do. Companies that sell three as a set just want to push more levers. And while you should never, ever leave your levers behind, the handles of quick-release skewers can be employed in a pinch before you start shaving tree branches.

Patch kit. I always start backcountry tours with two unopened tubes of glue.

Air pump. No, it's not really a"tool." But including it here might help to keep you — and me — from leaving it behind.

Air gauge. These don't weigh much, and are far more accurate than just giving the tire the two-finger squeeze.

Schrader tube valve cap. Buy the old metal kind, with the split-top valve-stem remover. But only if you are using Schrader valves, of course.

Boot material. Specially made tire boots (reinforcements placed inside a gashed tire) are available, but large tube patches also work well. It's a heck of a thing to do to presidents (well, some presidents), but if you're out of patches and the duct tape is holding someone's lips together, try folding a couple of dollar bills and patching the tire hole (from the inside) with them. Remember: All you're trying to do is to keep the tube from expanding out of the gash in your tire wall.

Spoke wrench. Be sure it will fit the spokes of the bike you're riding. Not every one will.

Tape each spoke nipple individually, and all spokes to the chainstay

So, with spokes there are two important things to remember:

1. Because any spoke can break, you should carry spare spokes that fit both sides of your rear wheel and your front wheel as well (each of which may be different lengths). To ensure that they'll be there if I need them, I prefer to tape five or six spares along a chainstay using several turns of black electrical tape. However, the nipple ends will vibrate free if they aren't taped individually to their spokes. Masking tape should be used for this since it will be far easier to remove and less messy than the sticky residue left by electrical tape.

2. You must either pack the tool or tools required to remove your freewheel or freehub/cassette (these differ from bike to bike, so head to the shop to learn just what you need) or, since these are deemed too large and too heavy by most riders, see if the freewheel tool/"pocket vise" combination (for older wheels using freewheels) will work for you. You might also find and learn to master a"Cassette Cracker" tool for newer wheels. Alternatively, drop five bucks on a cool "Fiberfix" spare spoke kit that replaces your toasted spoke with a Kevlar line thin enough to feed through the hub without having to remove your freewheel/freehub (!), yet strong enough to get you home. Don't lose the instructions that come with this handy tool; you'll need them. If you can't find this amazing kit at your local bike shop or in a catalogs, call the company directly: Innovations in Cycling (520-295-3936). My hat goes off to anyone who saves us from packing along chain whips and wrenches.