Days 2 - Skykomish, WA, to Cashmere, WA

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Day 2: June 20, 2000, Update

Skykomish, WA, to Cashmere, WA

Today's Miles: 69.4

Miles since Seattle: 133.4

Across the Cascades

The Cascades are aptly named. Water abounds. Rivers roar. Trees run thick. Lush green forests settle into steep-walled valleys. Mountains, many still snowcapped in the summer, tower above.

Pulling the Chain of Hope in the Cascades

The Cascades were also a significant barrier between where we had been in western Washington and where we had to go. Thought of the day's formidable climb was enough to prompt people to get an early start, waking up with the sun — or at least with the whistle of the 5 a.m. train. Chill, damp, pre-dawn air greeted the riders as they shook the sleep out of their eyes and prepared for another 69 miles on the road. After breakfast, with the sun creeping over the eastern ridges, we turned into the glare and started the climb.

Steven's Pass, a monster of an obstacle, rose ahead. Rumor had spread that it was a 4 percent gradient covering 2,000 feet over 12 miles. That grew to 12 percent covering 3,000 feet over 16 miles. The figures continued to snowball as we approached the hill. Once the climb began, the percentage grade and distance covered faded into mere abstractions. A steady burn crept into our legs, an ache that increased as we ascended.

For those bikers who love the hills, it was a chance to get some ascent into their legs. For other cyclists new to the mountains, it was a time to test their ability on a new type of terrain. And for the people who are taking the challenge on with new eyes and a body new to pedaling, it was an unparalleled and emotional accomplishment. The first really big hill always is. If anyone deserves the applause and support of friends and family and well-wishing onlookers, it is these people: long on the hill, slow and steady of the pedal, but of an iron determination.

Down the Long Stretch

Few people lingered for very long at the top of the pass. A chill breeze, and the sight of snow, was enough to push the riders forward. Besides, a screaming descent of nearly 20 miles lay ahead as the long-awaited reward. Yes, it's true that what goes up must come down. And down it came with a vengeance.

After a tough climb, it's time to settle in the seat and enjoy the ride

What goes up must come down

With the exception of one short but steep climb, it was all downhill. Miles of it, in fact. Chill gave way to sun-drenched warmth; rocky, moss-covered outcroppings lay on the side of the road until they dipped under the gurgle of Cascade runoff.

Basically, it was a biker's day in paradise. With a gentle tailwind, mild temperatures, a blissfully quiet road, splendid surrounding scenery, and — after the hill — a steady regular downhill ride, no one could have asked for anything more.

Wet into Dry

Like much of the Pacific Northwest, the Cascades are wet and mountainous. But, to the east, there is a dramatic change in terrain and climate. Whereas mountains tend to trap the clouds and free them of their water content, they also deny the area just to the east of this life-giving resource. So it is with the Cascades and the rain shadow to its east. Oh, it's not a real desert, but it is much more arid than in the west. The difference is striking.

The difference is striking: Eastern Washington

A new terrain: eastern Washington

We got a solid taste of this contrast in the long expanses of shadelessness and unrelenting sun. But today, it was something new to end a truly awesome ride: a glorious day in beautiful weather, when two pedals and a sense of purpose were all that mattered.

Camp was in a roomy fairground on the outskirts of town. A shower in the shower truck, pasta from the dinner truck, and a relaxing eve sent people to bed with the sun.

There was also a mild sense of foreboding as riders bedded down. Tomorrow is our first century — our first ride of over 100 miles — and it will be through the treeless terrain we glimpsed today. It seems a new challenge awaits as we begin each day of the Big Ride.

Ethan Gelber contributed this report.

For more information about today's ride, check out the Riding Reporter.

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